Discovering Furnas, Sao Miguel: A Guide to the Hidden Gem of the Azores
In January of 2023, I found myself looking out the window of the white, bleak winter in Ottawa. I needed to get away and I needed to go alone. I decided to visit the island of Sao Miguel in the Azores as it offered a change in scenery and it was a relatively short flight from Canada. During my visit, I fell in love with this small island as it has nature, history, food and culture that would be a new experience. This article showcases the variety of one of the regions on this island.
Sao Miguel, the largest and most populous island of the Portuguese Azores, is a breathtaking destination that offers a unique blend of natural beauty and cultural significance. The town of Furnas and its surrounding valley are host to some of the most exciting features on the island. Furnas has everything from incredible views and fantastic gardens to delicious food and geothermic activities! This day tour guide will help you discover the wonders of this region and help you plan your trip to Furnas, Sao Miguel.
Where is Furnas, Sao Miguel?
Furnas is located on the central-eastern part of Sao Miguel Island, approximately 43km (26 miles) from the capital of Ponta Delgada. Most tourists choose Ponta Delgada as their home base while exploring the island, but if you’re staying for a week or longer, I suggest splitting your time between two locations. Furnas is a terrific alternative because there are many things to do in the area and you will see “Nature’s Island” from a different perspective.
Renting a car is the most convenient way to travel to Furnas. Even though Furnas is a small city, some must-see sights are dispersed, making having a car necessary to view everything. To appreciate the town and the surrounding area, I’d suggest setting aside at least one full day or two if you want to spend more time climbing and enjoying the hot springs.
If you can’t rent a car for your trip but still want to see the major attractions, several tours will be discussed later in this guide.
How to Get to Furnas, Sao, Miguel
As previously indicated, there are several ways for travelers to reach Furnas, which is located 46 kilometers from Ponta Delgada.
Getting from Ponta Delgada to Furnas by car
Car travel is the quickest means of reaching Furnas. Since there is so much to see and do and little public transit, most visitors hire a car. If you’re driving, you can take the northern or southern road, which is about the same distance, to get to Furnas from Ponta Delgada. The northern route takes you through Ribeira Grande, and the southern route takes you through Vila Franca do Campo. Both merit a stop if you have time.
Getting from Ponta Delgada to Furnas by Bus
Although there is a direct bus from Ponta Delgada to Furnas, I don’t advise using it to get around Sao Miguel. It takes about 1.5 hours to get to Furnas and only runs twice daily. Even the locals do not recommend it as times are unreliable. For a detailed schedule, consult the timetable.
Group Tours to Furnas, Sao Miguel
Full-day tours from Ponta Delgada to Furnas can be arranged with many tour operators. Most feature a stop in Furnas to visit Terra Nostra Garden, Lagoa das Furnas and Caldeiras das Furnas. Because of other stops on the itinerary, the visit can be relatively short. Furnas deserves a more extended stay, and using a rental car will allow you more time in this unique area.
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Small-Group Ponta Delgada Food Tour in Azores
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What to See in Furnas, Sao Miguel
Several must-see sites exist during your day tour through Furnas, Sao Miguel. Although in no particular order, you may want to check out the view from Pico do Ferro on your way into the Furnas Valley. Once inside the caldera where the town is located, there are hot springs, botanic gardens, lakes, waterfalls, hiking trails, and superb food just waiting to be explored.
Miradouro do Pico do Ferro
The Furnas Valley is home to the spectacular Lagoa das Furnas, best seen from the Miradouro do Pico do Ferro. As seen in this stunning view, rich vegetation surrounds the lake, and the beauty of the landscape is reflected in the water’s clear blue color. The lake has significant historical significance because residents used it to cook their meals using the traditional Cozido das Furnas method. Today, visitors can enjoy a picnic by the lake or a hike in the adjacent hills. The stunning views of Lagoa das Furnas are genuine proof of the Azores’ natural beauty.
From Pico do Ferro, you get terrific views of the entire Valley: Furnas Lake, Caldeiras das Furnas, and the village. The Miradouro is easy to find on your way to town via EN 2-1A. Once you get up the hill and park, there’s a short walk up a steep path to the viewpoint.
The visibility will vary according to the weather, just like other miradouros on San Miguel. You will see little when it’s misty, which frequently happens on the island’s high elevations. On the SpotAzores website, you may see a weather preview before you go. You can see various locations in real-time and plan your vacation based on the prediction thanks to the webcams scattered throughout the island (and other Azores islands).
Caldeiras das Furnas
The Furnas Valley is at the bottom of an enormous volcanic crater about a 5-minute drive from Furnas Village. Even though the volcano last erupted in 1630, volcanic activity is still present in the area, and Furnas takes advantage of it. Aside from the thermal pools, the volcanic heat is also used for cooking the Cozido, a traditional Portuguese stew in Furnas and elsewhere in the Azores.
Pots containing a variety of meats and vegetables are placed underground in geothermal holes known as Fumaroles, where they spend approximately 6 hours of slow cooking using volcanic heat. If you look closely, you may notice mounds with signs with the names of local restaurants. Around late morning or noon, vans pick up the cooked Cozido pots and transport them to restaurants.
Once you have parked your car (a charge of 3 euros), you will notice the strong sulfur smell and a short walk through the woods to get to the lake of the thermally heated area. A wooden pathway traverses the site, giving you a better look at the bubbling hot springs and mini geysers. Be careful of the restricted areas as this is still an active zone, and changes to the earth’s structure can still occur. We were told that in 2021, one of the footpaths became impassible for safety reasons as some mud pools caved in and increased in size.
Caldeiras das Furnas is a unique experience and one of the top things to do on Sao Miguel. As such, it will be pretty busy during the summer, especially for those spending the day enjoying the lake or hiking the perimeter.
Lagoa do Furnas
Lagoa do Furnas is the lake’s name that sits in this crater beside the thermal areas. It is one of the three primary crater lakes on the island of Sao Miguel. Although it may not be as well-known as Sete Cidades or Lagoa do Fogo (Fire Lake), it is nonetheless worthwhile.
Although swimming in the lake is prohibited, kayaking and paddle boarding are permitted if want to spend some time on the water. In addition, there is an 8 km (5 mile) loop around the lake if you want to hike or ride a bike. On the far side of the lake, at the lake’s edge, is the Capela de Nossa Senhora de las Victorias, a magnificent church from the 1800s, and it is well worth a visit if you are hiking the perimeter.
Hike Park Grena
In the recently restored Grena Park, on the far side of the thermal area, you may stroll along the paths and see streams, trees, and waterfalls or, perhaps, catch a glimpse of the wildlife of Sao Miguel. The history of the Grena restoration is also chronicled in a display at the park’s entrance.
A visit here costs 10 euros for entry, and most visitors spend two hours exploring the park’s natural beauty.
Furnas Village
Furnas’ natural hot springs are a sight to behold. They are located in the heart of the Furnas Valley and are one of the region’s main attractions. The island’s mineral-rich geothermal activity heats these hot springs, making them an ideal location for relaxation and rejuvenation. The advantages of soaking in these hot springs include improved circulation, stress reduction, and muscle pain relief. These hot springs are distinguished by their distinct sulfuric odor, which attests to their natural and authentic origins.
Within the village, there are two hot springs you can swim and relax in. These are located in Terra Nostra Park and at the Poça da Dona Beija, which will be discussed further in this post.
Also, in the center of town is the Caldeiras Vulcanias, where you can walk among several pathways of steaming springs and bubbling mud steps from the city center. This area is also known as the Jardin das Quenturas where you will find playgrounds, picnic areas, and warm pools fed by the geothermal springs.
During my stay on Sao Miguel, I fell in love with Furnas and went twice a week. Even on a cloudy, foggy day, it’s charming, quaint, and mysterious. The village is compact and small and best explored on foot. Because the streets are narrow and parking may be difficult, you should leave your car at the hotel and walk around. Alternatively, tours are plentiful from Ponta Delgada. Despite being a popular stop on many tours around the island, Furnas feels open and natural.
Terra Nostra Park
You can’t visit Sao Miguel Island without visiting Terra Nostra Park, which is regarded as one of Europe’s most beautiful parks. This 200-year-old park on 31 acres has a fantastic collection of plants, shrubs, and trees from around the world. Some are indigenous to the Azores, while others were imported from other countries.
Take your time exploring the park via different paths other than the main ones. You’ll see beautiful flowers, a lily pond, and an impressive fern collection. Topiary Garden is in the back, with stone animal sculptures covered in moss. This well-kept park was, without a doubt, one of my favorite spots on the island.
PRO TIP: Wear an older bathing suit when visiting. The minerals tend do stain clothing.
Poça da Dona Beija
Swimming in the natural hot springs is one of the best things to do in Furnas, Sao Miguel. Poca da Dona Beija is a spa where visitors can swim in multiple geothermal-heated pools, and they have five pools with varying water temperatures set in a garden setting. Unlike the Terra Nostra Park pool, which closes at 6 p.m., Poça da Dona Beija is open until late, which makes this an excellent evening activity in Furnas.
PRO TIP: Bring your towel. If you forget, you can rent one for €4.
Try Cozido das Furnas
You’ve probably worked up an appetite after a long day exploring the natural beauty of Furnas, Sao Miguel. It’s time to try Cozido, a local specialty with an unusual preparation method. Remember those large pots in Caldeiras da Lagoa das Furnas? Inside, they prepared Cozido, a meat, potato, and vegetable stew. The end result of five hours of cooking in a volcano is a tasty, tender meal straight from the earth.
I ate the Cozido at Tony’s, but plenty of restaurants are serving this particular dish in town, and many have a sign outside saying that Cozido is available.
Where to eat in Furnas, Sao Miguel
Tony’s – one of the most popular places in the village, especially for trying the Cozido. The restaurant gets bustling, so make a reservation a few days before for lunch or dinner.
Miroma – a nice restaurant with both indoor and outdoor seating. Like most places, they serve Cozido and other great dishes, i.e., Octopus salad.
Queijaria Furnense – a great place to try some of the best local cheeses. Aside from cheese boards, they also serve salads and drinks.
Terra Nostra Restaurant– for a more upscale dining experience, visit the Terra Nostra Garden Hotel restaurant. Also, having a meal at the restaurant gives you complimentary access to Terra Nostra Park.
Conclusion
Finally, the town of Furnas, Sao Miguel, is a hidden gem that provides visitors with a unique combination of natural beauty and cultural significance. Natural hot springs, Terra Nostra’s lush botanical gardens, and scenic views of Lagoa das Furnas are just a few of the many wonders to be discovered in this beautiful region. A day tour of Furnas will leave you feeling refreshed, rejuvenated, and inspired.
Another day trip you might like is to Sete Cidades to visit the spectacular Twin Lakes or to the Nordeste Region of the island. If you to explore nature in their habitat, perhaps a whale watching trip is more your style.
Or if you prefer to stay in Ponta Delgada, here are some things to do in this historic town. And we cannot forget to mention the fabulous places to eat in Ponta Delgada that serve amazing Azorean cuisine.
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I agree completely about the need to control over-tourism. When I was there in January 2023, one of the guides informed me that sixteen new airlines would start bringing people there. Although some expansion is good, I can only imagine how such an increased number of visitors will impact the natural beauty of this diverse natural environment.
The Azores are becoming a “hot” destination, and like any place with a unique environment part of my responsibility is understanding how to prevent exploitation. When I look at how many places that are over-visited my heart hurts. I work for a travel agency that is part of the Virtuoso Travel Network; I am part of the Sustainability Community and our goals are almost counterintuitive - less is more. I am sending some clients to Sao Miguel as part of a larger itinerary for them and we’ve had the discussion about managing impact.